Sunday 16 June 2013

Bratislava - Little Big City

Just to be clear from the start...
I am starting to wish i had given myself more time to explore eastern Europe. Bratislava has a real charm about it. It is a small city (i walked peactically everywhere) yet there is lots to see and do.
Part of its charm is that it hasn't turned into a city overrun with tourist, and moreover, the trappings that go with that.
The restaurants charge local prices not tourist prices and there are no photos of food outside, or waitors trying to drag you in for their deal. There are no hop on hop off tourist buses or people dressed in traditional costumes trying to get you to sign up for tours. That's not to say that there aren't tours if you go looking. In cities like Vienna or Amsterdam I almost felt like I was visiting a theme park of the city. Bratislava was very refreshing.
I had a little flag finding game today, I won, mainly because I was the only one playing. There is also a picture of me hidden in amongst the flags

The new shopping development along the north bank of the river. it felt a bit like Brighton Marina, If you imagine that the sea is the Danube and Brighton is sunny. There is lots of restaurants and bars, all with outside terraces overlooking the Danube. (Oh, and there was an M&S there too) I sat here and watched the sun set over the Danube on my first night.
There are lots of communist housing blocks to the south of the Danube.
The square is called Namestie Slobody or Gotko after the communist Klement Gottwald. His statue was removed in 1990. (Sawn off by the feet because the foundations were too strong)
The fountain is called Druzba (friendship) is in the shape of a linden flower but has had no water since 2007 and is really neglected and covered in graffiti.

Walked past this little feller a dozen time befor I noticed him popping out of the pavement.
Solvensky Rozhlas or the upsidedown pyramid. Home of Slovac Radio. A very strange looking building and I got the impression that the locals were not very proud of it

Grasalkovicov
Currently the home of President Ivan Gasparovic. The Peace Fountain in front reminded me of Shelley's fountain in Horsham....OK, it didn't really, they are both globular but this one has water.

Church and Convent of the Order of St. Claire, The Blue Church (although I also heard it referred to as the Smurf Church), Kostlo Sv. Ladislava and St Martins Cathedral.
St Martins Gateway
The National Theatre in the Old Town.

Bratislava Castle - the most dominant feature on the landscape and it looks beautiful when lit up at night.

There was a strange window design in the castle




Views across the city from the castle. Aerials, chimneys and windmills in the distance, the view of the old town and the communist housing blocks to the south of the river.

Statue of Svatopluk - 9th century king of Slovans. Recent addition to the front of the castle and isn't really in keeping with the surroundings.



Got my ticket from the yellow machine at the bus stop. 0.90€ for 90 mins.Then got the number 29 bendy bus to Devin Hrad.

Bargain price of 3€ to get in and a short walk to the top to explore andto enjoy the view. Even includes entrence into the small museum which details the forts history and strategic position

Lots of rooms in the ruins to explore

A lake in the flood plane of the Morara River.

The castle is on the site if the confluence of the Danube and Morava rivers. In the bottom picture you can even see to different colour water where the two rivers meet.



Sculptures and a memorial along the banks of the Danube below the castle.

The UFO and SNP Bridge.
The symbol of Bratislava? 85 Metre tall communist masterpiece on the south side of the SNP Bridge.

The biggest synagogue in Europe used to be in Bratislava but in 1969 it was destroyed to make way for this bridge. A whole neighbourhood was destroyed. Now there is a bus station.
The Old Bridge
Closed to traffic as it is not safe, but you can walk across it. So that is a 'no' to cars in the Danube but a 'yes' to people in the Danube.

I Had a request for more food posts so here goes...
Top left is Bryndzove Halusky, I was told this is the national dish, it is tiny potato dumplings with sheep cheese, bacon and sour cream. It was yummy! I also ordered a side sales which came swimming in water.
On my second night I had cesnacka, this is creamy garlic soup served in a giant bread roll. Also yummy.
So a thumbs up to Slovak Food.

I really liked the humour in Brarislava, the people, the town and even the guide books.

I didn't try any of the useful phrases below.

Slavin
This statue on the Machnac Hill looks over Bratislava. It is a memorial at the military cemetery where 7000 Russian Red Army soldiers were buried on 1945.

The Forgotten Street - Kapitulska
The oldest street in Brataslava dates back to the 13th century. It is largely derelict but utterly beautiful.

I turned mu flash on and stuck my camera in this window. I was half expecting a hand to grab it but nothing so exciting happened.

It turned out that this week was Bratislava Street Arts Festival with free music throughout the old town on various stages. On the first night there were some pretty shocking bands and a play which I didn't understand a word of. On the Saturday night there was an amazing drumming band and some fire dances. All in alla brilliant atmosphere and great for people watching.

Every summer during the Street Arts Festival artist and children paint the area under the SNP Bridge

Scary old communist style train station. It wasn't the best introduction to Bratislava as it was heaving when I arrived. Now I am sad to leave.
Bye Bratislava, it's been fun